This is an e-mail I just got and my response. I thought this would be interesting to share with everyone:

Dear Lynn,

Many many years ago you showed me how to tie-on with a double-bowline knot when leading. This was in 1988 or so, in Buoux, and you were redpointing Choucas with Tony Yaniro and Scott Franklin. It seems a long time ago (I was just a youthful 17 year old then), but ever since I have been using the knot, and, happily, have never had any problems despite many falls.

I’m aware that you had your awful fall down the Styx Wall a decade or so ago, and I was wondering if you still use the knot, or perhaps ditched it as a result?

Robin
London

Hi Robin!
That was a long time ago when I was in Buoux with Tony Yaniro. He lives
in Boseman, MT now: new job, new wife, but still climbing. I also have a
two-year old son named Owen. He looks like he could be from Welsh.

I do still use the double-bowline knot even though it was the knot I
forgot to finish. I tell the story in detail in my book, Climbing Free.
The problem was more about being distracted in the middle of tying my
knot and I also had a jacket on to hide this mistake.

In any case, perhaps it is harder to forget the second half of the knot
if tying a figure eight because you can see that it is only half-tied.

I hope all continues to go well with you!
Cheers!
Lynn